Porchetta di Campli The recipe “signed” by a queen
What to buy

There are two foundations to the magical (and much overused) word ‘terroir’, created by the French and defined by UNESCO as: the value and characteristics of an environment (the area), and the human know-how accumulated over time and inspired by these characteristics. Therefore, it is no wonder, given the definition, that Campli should be the ‘terroir’ of porchetta. We are in an area famous for its location in the foothills and for its truffles. What better place to create pork with a unique flavour? In Campovalano, in 1000 BC, the italic peoples made it, and made it so well that the Roman Decurions copied the principles and customs. And 15 centuries later, in 1575, without a break in the tradition, the Statutes of Campli report the chapters of a revision signed by Margaret of Austria and dedicated to what had already become a local icon: porchetta, a vital resource with definitions of the methods of husbandry and access to grazing, which breeds to use (not to interbreed sows with wild boars) and even the ‘right’ way to cook it (if lightly cooked, porchetta loses less weight but is not of such high quality). After all Margaret knew better. She was a member of the Farnese family, feudal lords of Parma and Piacenza, an area in which they know everything about pork. Therefore, it is easy and fascinating to think that in Camplese porchetta and her recipe, the best of two extraordinary pig ‘cultures’ converge. The custodians of this tradition are the artisans of today: Andrea Foco, took over from his father in the family butchery business, and know-how that goes back to the rules of the mythical workshop of Luigi “Geppino” Meloni; Salvatore Di Angelo, a perfect creator, or Massimo Fagioli, third generation to work in the business (under the sign dedicated to Quinto Cappuccelli, pioneer of the company), who is now ready to export the historic Camplese ‘street food’ to Florida, in the USA, to places that will serve not only porchetta, but also Canzanese-style tripe and turkey.